How to choose a blank: weights, fabrics and fits explained

The blank is the garment before it's decorated. It decides how the finished piece feels, fits and wears, and it affects which decoration methods will work. Every spec sheet comes down to three things: weight, fabric and fit. Here's how to read them.

Weight: what the ounces mean

Fabric weight is listed in ounces per square yard. A higher number means thicker fabric. Our tee racks fall into three bands:

• Everyday, about 3.8–5.3 oz: soft, light and cool. The Next Level 3600 (4.3 oz) is our best seller. BELLA+CANVAS 3001 (4.2 oz) is light and smooth, and Gildan 5000 (5.3 oz) is classic heavy cotton with a roomy fit.
• Midweight, 6–6.8 oz: more substance and a premium hand. Comfort Colors 1717 (6.1 oz), AS Colour 5026 (6.5 oz), Independent Trading Co. IND50TEE (6.5 oz) and Next Level 7200 (6.8 oz).
• Heavyweight, 7.1–8.2 oz: thick, structured streetwear. AS Colour 5082 (7.1 oz), BELLA+CANVAS 4610 and Shaka Wear SHGDD (7.5 oz), Lane Seven LS16005GD (7.66 oz) and AS Colour 5080 (8.2 oz).

Heavier isn't automatically better. A 4.3 oz tee is what you want for a summer 5K or a crew working outside in Miami. An 8.2 oz tee is what you want for a merch drop that should feel substantial in the hand.

Fleece runs heavier: Gildan 18500 hoodies are 8 oz, our go-to Independent Trading Co. SS4500 is 8.5 oz, Champion S700 is 9 oz, and the Comfort Colors 1566 crewneck is 9.5 oz.

Fabric: cotton, blends and polyester

100% cotton

Soft, breathable and the classic choice. Cotton is the best canvas for DTG and takes screen printing and DTF well. Most of our everyday, midweight and heavyweight tees are 100% cotton.

Watch for "(solid colors)" on a spec sheet, as with the Gildan 5000 or BELLA+CANVAS 3480 tank. It means only the solid shades are 100% cotton; the heathers are blends. That matters if you're planning DTG.

Cotton/poly blends

Blends feel extra soft and are standard in fleece. The Next Level 6210 is a 60/40 cotton/poly tee that shows up a lot in our gym work: Rock Fitness's indigo Tactical tees and Like A Pro's heather blue Pro Standard tees are both on it. Hoodies are usually blends too, like the 50/50 Gildan 18500 and the 80/20 Independent Trading Co. SS4500.

Tri-blends

Tri-blends mix three fibers for a thin, drapey, vintage feel. The Next Level 6010 is 4.2 oz and the BELLA+CANVAS 3413 is 3.8 oz. DTF works well here: the Beachfront Fitness shark mural long sleeves are full-color DTF on a Next Level triblend.

100% polyester and performance

Moisture-wicking, quick-drying and often sun-protective. The A4 N3142 cooling tee is 4 oz with 44+ UPF, the Sport-Tek ST350 is 3.8 oz, and the Paragon 210 and 220 sun shirts are 3.5 oz. These are built for the boat, the field and Miami afternoons.

Decorate performance fabric with DTF or embroidery. DTG doesn't bond well to polyester, and screen printing on performance fabric often costs more than DTF on smaller runs.

Garment-dyed

Garment-dyed tees are dyed after they're sewn, which gives them a soft, broken-in feel and a faded, lived-in color. Comfort Colors 1717, AS Colour 5082 and Lane Seven LS16005GD are all garment-dyed. Naughty Coffee went with the AS Colour 5082 in faded coal, and I am Recvr chose Lane Seven's pigment black. Because each batch is dyed as finished garments, expect small shade differences from piece to piece.

Fit: how it will hang

• Retail or modern fit: trimmer through the body. BELLA+CANVAS 3001 and 3010, Gildan 64000 Softstyle.
• Regular fit: the safe middle. Next Level 3600, AS Colour 5026.
• Roomy or relaxed: more room through the body. Gildan 5000, AS Colour 5080, BELLA+CANVAS 4610, Next Level 7200.
• Boxy, cropped or oversized: the streetwear silhouette. Lane Seven LS16005GD is boxy and slightly cropped, and Shaka Wear SHGDD has a boxy drop shoulder. SwayLuxx Miami's oversize tees are on the Lane Seven LS16005.
• Women's cuts: Next Level 3900 women's tee, Next Level 1533 racerback, BELLA+CANVAS 8800 flowy racerback. HER Community chose a BELLA+CANVAS 1010 baby tee, and Brawlerz Box used an AS Colour 4068 crop tank.

Sizes can almost always be mixed in one order. Multiple garment colors are often possible too, but art designed for a light shirt may need adjusting to work on a dark one.

Match the blank to the method

• DTG: 100% cotton, ideally a solid color.
• DTF: almost anything, including cotton, polyester, blends and performance fabric.
• Screen printing: cotton and polyester, best for larger runs of one design.
• Embroidery: polos, hats, jackets, bags and fleece. The Quench & Co crewnecks carry a 10-inch embroidered wordmark on a heavyweight Independent Trading Co. IND3000. We don't recommend embroidery on lightweight tees: go for at least 5 oz, and ideally 6 oz or heavier. Hoodies and crewnecks are usually fine.

Quick picks

• Events and giveaways: Next Level 3600 or Gildan 5000. Everyday tees
• Streetwear drops: AS Colour 5080 or 5082, Lane Seven LS16005GD, Comfort Colors 1717. Heavy streetwear and midweight streetwear
• Staff polos: Port Authority K500, a 5 oz easy-care pique, or Sport-Tek ST640 mesh for hot days. Classic polos
• Boat and fishing crews: Paragon, A4 and Sport-Tek Posi-UV sun shirts. Boat and performance
• Gyms and run clubs: Next Level 3633 muscle tank, Next Level 1533 racerback, Comfort Colors 9360 heavyweight tank. Tanks and gym
• Cooler months: Independent Trading Co. SS4500 hoodie or Comfort Colors 1566 crewneck. Hoodies and crews

Timing and samples

Most blanks reach us within 1 to 3 days, though some styles can take up to 7. Tell us the exact style and color you want and we'll check availability and give you a real delivery estimate. Production turnaround starts once the garments arrive and you approve your mockup.

Not sure between two styles? Samples are possible in many cases, and you're welcome to feel the fabrics in person at our Miami shop. Book an appointment or give us at least an hour's notice.

Tell us who's wearing it and how, and we'll suggest a few blanks to compare. Get a quote or chat with us.